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Heart & Soul ToursLisbon · Portugal
Vineyard estate at sunset in Portugal

The journal

Notes from the road.

Practical local knowledge from the people who drive these routes every week.

The right hour to visit Sintra

Guides · June 2026

The right hour to visit Sintra

Pena Palace before 10am is a different palace entirely. Here is how we build a Sintra day that never feels crowded.

Twelve Lisbon viewpoints, ranked by light

Lisbon · May 2026

Twelve Lisbon viewpoints, ranked by light

Miradouros are not equal. Some are morning places, some belong to the last half hour before sunset.

Setúbal or Douro: which wine day suits you

Wine · April 2026

Setúbal or Douro: which wine day suits you

One is an hour from Lisbon and gloriously unhurried. The other is a landscape you will never forget. How to choose.

Should you rent a car in Portugal?

Travel tips · March 2026

Should you rent a car in Portugal?

An honest answer from people who drive here daily — including the roads, tolls and towns where we would not.

Nazaré in big-wave season

Coast · February 2026

Nazaré in big-wave season

When the swell arrives, the cliff at Sítio becomes the best free show in Europe. What to expect and when to go.

Ten days in Portugal, without rushing

Itineraries · January 2026

Ten days in Portugal, without rushing

The route we recommend most often, and the three mistakes that cost first-time visitors a whole day.

New notes are published every month. In the meantime, ask us anything directly — we answer personally.

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